Use concentration necessary to clean and roughen the surface smooth surfaces may require higher concentration. Etch clean the surface with a muriatic acid solution. Plug cracks and leaks around fittings using hydraulic cement ( SGM Dynamite Pool Patch). Stop water penetration from the outside pool. Remove loose tile and fittings undercut existing plaster two (2) inches below the tile line, and around return lines and fittings to a depth of 3/8 inch. Fill holes with specified patching cement SGM HSR High Strength Render to a level of existing plaster. Undercut the edges of the remaining plaster. Saw cut an area three (3) inches around bad spots and remove plaster inside the saw cut. Remove and repair all hollow and de-laminated plaster. Remove all cleaning solutions via high-pressure washing. Wash oil and grease spots using tri-sodium phosphate or equivalent and water soak if necessary. Wash with chlorine until algae, mold, and mildew are gone. Clean with high-pressure water or by sandblasting. Clean pool surfaces of all material that might interfere with the proper bonding of coatings. Identify hollow spots in plaster by sounding. Look for algae, mold, mildew, dirt, paint, mortar droppings, efflorescence, patching compounds, loose tile, cracked plaster, et cetera. The pool is filled and I am really trying to avoid any solution that requires draining and refilling (since its not that bad, the pool generally still looks blue).Examine pool surfaces to identify conditions that might interfere with the proper bonding of coating. When we re-opened, after the winter, we see much more extensive spread of these white splotches. I have not been using an calcium de-scaling products in the past season and did not do treatments over the winter. consequences of poor plastering (from the white spotting thread, it looks quite different) calcium scaling (removable by hot-start etc) The main question I have is, is there a way to test, without draining the pool if this is: Hi, thanks for your comments on this thread, I really appreciate it. Before making a decision to do the hot start, Id like to get an opinions as to whether this is really the issue especially since my calcium readings dont seem that high to me? Any help is appreciated, especially from OnBalance who seems to have written a lot on the subject of plaster issues. TA: 150 (working on dropping this a bit with aeration and lower Ph) Current readings are:ĬL: 2 (working on raising this now after the open) I generally succeed at having my pool chemistry in check, never had a green pool. I wanted to get a 2nd opinion by posting here as it also seems similar to the white He believes this will remove the discoloration. PC recommends "hot start"ing the pool, i.e 4 days of sub-6 Ph. I called my contractor and he believes that it is calcium scaling/nodules. This spring when I re-opened, it seems to have spread more. Starting towards the middle of last summer we started noticing discoloration of the surface. It was resurfaced with Diamond Brite Midnight blue. Our pool was renovated in the summer of 2017. Hi everyone, I am a first time poster here at TFP, but have been reading about water chemistry for a couple of years here.
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